Passing London – Hackney

Zwischen Industrie und Szene. Foto: Susanne Beckmann


Zwischen luxuriösem Workspace und Industrie

London, meine neue Liebe. Wie das Leben so ist. Die Liebe zu dem Einen vergeht – eine neue kommt. So geht es mir mit London. Die Stadt ist mir bisher immer zu laut, zu stinkig und zu voll gewesen. Überladen von einem architektonischen Sammelsurium von Townhouses, Grenfell Towers über brutalistische Betonarchitektur der 60er Jahre bis zur Hochglanzglasfassade der neuen Zeit auf engstem Raum. Leben auf dem Präsentierteller ist ganz hip in London. Das beste Beispiel ist der Blick von der Terasse der Tate Modern. Drei über 20-stöckige schmale Glaswohnbauten stehen auf Tuchfühlung mit dem Galerie-Neubau der Architekten Herzog & de Meuron. Man hat einen wunderbaren Einblick in die Schlafzimmer der Bewohner. So scheints – Voyeure willkommen.

Per Bus und zu Fuß – London ganz nah

Zu Fuß oder mit dem Bus London zu entdecken, ist ein absolutes Erlebnis. Das braucht Zeit und ist am besten aus dem Doppeldecker zu geniessen. Der Puls der Stadt ist spürbar durch das Gemisch an Kleiderkulturen und Sprachen dieser Welt. London ist vielschichtig. Die Stadt zeichnet viele Bilder der Extreme. Die liegen nicht nur im Zentrum rund um Piccadilly Circus und der Themse. Wirklich interessant wird es im Osten und Westen. Wir machen uns zu Fuß auf den Weg, dann mit dem Bus durch das jüdische Viertel Golders Green in Barnet. Von dort aus geht es nach Hackney.

Golders Green – wie aus der Zeit gefallen
Ein geballtes orthodoxes Straßenbild offenbart sich uns. Hier existiert eine säkuläre Gesellschaft, die nichts mit dem London zu tun hat, das ich bisher kannte. Ich werde in der ersten Reihe im Doppeldecker zum Voyeur.

Koschere Fleischereien, Buchläden, Schilder in hebräischer Schrift säumen die lebendige Strassen des Viertels. Frauen tragen keusche Damenmode in Grau, Dunkelblau, Schwarz, Knielange Röcke und schwarze Kappen auf dem Haar. Schwarz gekleidete Männer prägen mit ihren ausladenden Hüten und ihren langen Pejes (Schläfenlocken) das Straßenbild. Das erklärt das Fehlen der Boutiquen mit den aktuellen Kollektionen der Saison. Die Szenen erlebe ich wie in einem Film. Nur einige Busstationen weiter sind wir in Hackney angekommen.


Fast dörflich erscheint die Strasse in Hackney oberhalb des Kanalufers an.

Die Häuser werden noch kleiner. Man hat nicht das Gefühl, in einer Großstadt zu sein. Die einzelnen Viertel sind geprägt durch Kleinstadtarchitektur, die Mini-Townhouses, die sich allenfalls über zwei Etagen erstrecken. Im Gegensatz zu den zentralen Vierteln der Stadt erscheinen die Häuser hier wie im Spielzeugland.
Intuitiv folgen wir dem Grün am Strassenrand und landen im Victoria Park. Dort gelangen wir ans Ufer des Regent´s Canal. Wieder offenbart sich eine andere Welt von London. Schluß mit Spielzeugland.

2018-3-Canalufer-Hackney-living-in-london. Foto: Susanne-Beckmann


Hier scheint die Idylle perfekt. Richtige Luxusmodelle ankern leise neben kreativ zusammengezimmerten Hausbooten in ordentlicher Reihenfolge am Ufer entlang des Regent´s Canal. Jogger und Fahrradfahrer suchen hier den Großstadtstress mit Sport zu kompensieren. Die Nachmittagssonne ruht auf dem Wasser und zieht mit dem Fluß in Richtung Westen. Es wird ruhig doch nur einige Brücken weiter bricht der Moloch einer Megacity auf das stille Ufer herein.

Industriearchitektur am Regent´s Canal

Gasometer, umgebaute Speicherhäuser, Containerhäuser mit vergitterten Fenstern – auch der letzte Schrei – Baugerüste, Bauskelette, Wolkenkratzer und ein Gemisch aus aller vorstellbaren Architektur ragt ohne jedes Konzept in den Himmel.

Industriearchitektur am Regent´s Canal
Uferweg Hackney

Platzhirsch bizarre Architektur

Die Fassaden werden immer kantiger und bizarrer. Am Ende unseres Weges erscheint das totale Bauchaos von immer größeren und höheren Gebäuden. Hackney scheint aus allen Nähten zu platzen. Man denkt, mehr geht nicht. Aber es geht immer noch mehr. Es gibt keine Ordnung, keine Einheitlichkeit. Jede architektonische Utopie findet hier seinen Platz und funktioniert auch nebeneinander. Die Überreste des einstigen Armeniertels wirken wie aus der Zeit gefallen.

Workspace „under the bridge“.

Faszinierend. Aber wohnen möchte ich dort nicht. Am Ufer entlang sind in den Katakomben der Brücke Büros untergebracht, Obdachlose campieren am Ufer in Zelten. Start ups formieren sich in den unzählig aneinander gereihten Workspacegebäuden zu Arbeitsgruppen in Großraumbüros. Wenn man sich vorstellt, wie viele Workspaces allein in Hackney zur Verfügung stehen, dann sieht man, wie eng es in London um freie Nutzflächen bestellt ist. Klar wird hier, man kippt von einem Extrem ins andere und das ganz unvermittelt.


Ein Armenviertel wird zum Szeneviertel

Hackney trägt noch einen Anstrich seiner proletarischen Urbewohner, der industriell genutzten Uferbebauung und dem ärmlichen Leben, das schon längst der Gentrifizierung zum Opfer gefallen ist. Künstler, Filmer, Fotografen, Galerien und ein Hunger nach Luxus legt sich eher schnell als langsam wie ein Schleier über das ehemahlige Armenviertel von London.

London vollzieht eine architektonische Grätsche, wie man sie in keiner europäischen Stadt sonst kennt. Die utopisch hohen Preise zwingen zu kreativen Lösungen oder den Auszug aus dem Zentrum. Wer in London lebt, braucht Geld.

Text: S. O. Beckmann
Fotos: S. O. Beckmann

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